
California olive oil history dates back hundreds of years to the late 1700s, when the first olive trees were brought over from Spain. As the industry grew, olive trees became a common sight in Northern California and the Central Valley, and olive oil processing mills began opening to meet demand for the golden nectar.
According to Paul Vossen, UCCE farm advisor for Marin and Sonoma counties, California is now home to 11 olive oil processing mills, ranging in annual production size from 4,000 to 150,000 gallons each, as well as several smaller mills. "Production has been steadily increasing each year, except for 2000-01 when there was a very small crop," Vossen said. Since 1996-97, California olive oil production has increased from 123,000 gallons to 400,000 gallons in 2002-03.
This growth caught the attention of California wineries during the 1990s, and dozens began planting olive trees with oil production in mind. "Wineries account for about 12-15% of the state's annual extra virgin olive oil production," said Patricia Darragh, executive director of the Berkeley-based California Olive Oil Council (COOC).
Though she couldn't confirm the total number of wineries that are currently producing olive oil, Darragh said that more than two dozen have been certified by the COOC. "There is a dramatic increase in production by wineries, year over year," she said. "The industry overall is growing dramatically and many more wineries are becoming involved."
Thanks to the efforts of wineries like B.R. Cohn, Preston Vineyards, Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Wente Vineyards, high-end California olive oil is making a name for itself on the national gourmet food scene. But is producing olive oil worth the effort?
Climate, Soils And Care
Like grapevines, olive trees are not for the impatient. The trees must be planted in the right location, and tended properly. It takes three or four years for the trees to bear fruit, and the olives should be hand-harvested at the peak of ripeness (usually in October or November), avoiding any contact with the ground.
UC Davis is in the process of studying trial olive orchards in different parts of the state, to determine where the trees grow best. "Ideal growing conditions are deep, dry gravely soil, with good drainage," Vossen said. "A climate that does not get below 24[degrees]F that might kill the trees in the winter, nor temperatures below 30[degrees]F during the months of November and December that might freeze and ruin the fruit prior to harvest. Other than that, they seem to grow and produce well in the Central Valley and in cool coastal areas."
Profiting From "Liquid Gold"
Specialty extra virgin olive oils often sell for $20-50 per bottle--an amount that leads some people to believe it's a huge profit-maker. But before you start ripping out Chardonnay vines to plant olive trees, consider the cost of production.
"Profit on the North Coast is better for winegrapes at $2,000 per ton of fruit," Vossen said. "Olives on the North Coast are expensive to grow because of the high cost of land. The land parcels are small and the land is not as flat and less likely to be able to be harvested mechanically." Olive production tends to be more profitable for wineries in the Central Valley, Vossen added, where "land is cheaper, labor rates are a bit lower, water is cheaper, etc., and the land is flatter and better adapted to over-the-row mechanical harvest. Most olives are worth from $300 to $600 per ton. With yields of about 5 tons per acre and lower cost mechanical harvest, I believe there is a pretty good potential for the super-high-density production system."
According to Sharon Cohn, who handles day-to-day olive oil production at B.R. Cohn Winery with her husband Bruce, "It costs about $200 per gallon to get (the oil) into the bottle--it's like liquid gold." When asked to compare olive oil and wine production, Bruce Cohn commented, "Neither of them make any money. I don't know anyone who's making money in olive oil." So why does he do it? "I do it because I like it, and because the trees are here," he said. "And our tasting room visitors like it. We sell out of our oil every year."
Sharon said she truly enjoys the olive oil side of the business, and wishes that she and Bruce had started it earlier. "We could have started losing money even sooner!" Bruce added, with a laugh. "Unless you're doing it in a big way, you're not going to make money doing it. It's a labor of love, and a lifestyle issue."
Damian Parker, production manager for Joseph Phelps Vineyards, expressed a similar view. "We are trying to break even, it's more of a lifestyle thing for Joe (Phelps)," he said. "Joe wanted to diversify some of the farming on the ranch, and growing olive trees and making olive oil is very Mediterranean. Joe has an affinity for Mediterranean varietals and Napa's climate is very suited for them." Phelps planted 3.5 acres of olive trees in 1998, and added an additional acre in 2001. "Until you have mature trees, it's very hard to make any money. To date we have not."
For Lou Preston, owner of Preston Vineyards in Sonoma County, olive oil production is more than a labor of love. "But if we had to rely on the wholesale market for distribution the profit would disappear," he said. The oil is a brisk seller in the winery's tasting room, Preston said, thanks in part to its COOC extra virgin certification and last year's favorable Wine Spectator review.
Profits aside, Preston's olive oil also plays an important role in the winery's Mediterranean focus. "Our mission is to give our visitors an integrated farm-based food experience--wine, bread from the winery forno, cured olives, olive oil, pickles and fresh produce from the organic kitchen gardens," he said. "Everything is from our farm, everything is organically grown."
Livermore's Wente Vineyards has also managed to make a profit producing olive oil from the winery's century-old trees, according to sales and marketing president Carolyn Wente. "My grandfather used to make oil and cure olives until the 1960s, when the labor became too expensive to justify picking and processing," she said. "I began producing the oil again in 1986."
Wente's olive oil is sold in the winery's tasting room, and brokers distribute it on a limited basis to high-end retail accounts. "It sells very well," Wente said.
Getting Into The Act
If you're thinking of getting into the olive oil business, remember what your sixth grade teacher always said, "Do your homework." The following resources will help you save time, money and headaches down the road.
"Olive Production Manual"--This practical guide covers olive botany, orchard planning, orchard maintenance (including nutrient analysis, irrigation systems, pest control and crop management), harvesting and post-harvest processing. Available on the UC Davis Web site for $32: http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/merchant.ihtml?pid=299&step=4.
"Producing Olive Oil in California"--This pamphlet offers background and practical information for olive oil producers. Available for $7 through UC Davis. To order, visit the Web site: http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/merchant.ihtml?pid=548&lastcatid=149&step=4.
UC Davis Cost Analysis Study--Paul Vossen and his colleagues at UC Davis completed a study of olive oil production in February, 2004. View it on the university's Web site at http://coststudies.ucdavis.edu.
California Olive Oil Council--Created in 1992, the COOC's mission is to establish California as a source of world-class olive oil. For industry resources and information on the organization's certification program, visit the Web site cooc.com.
Oliveoilsource.com--This Web site includes a listing of U.S. olive oil producers, as well as statistics and information on starting an olive oil business.
RELATED ARTICLE: Wineries Press On
Despite its monetary challenges, wineries continue to devote time, money and passion to upscale olive oil production. Here's a look at what a few of California's best oil-producing wineries are doing.
Year Oil Production Began: 1990
Picking And Processing: The winery's grape management company harvests the olives. The crop is pressed at The Olive Press in Glen Ellen.
Acreage And Varieties: The Cohns have 10 acres of French Picholine trees, planted on the Olive Hill estate in 1875. According to Bruce Cohn, 1 ton of Picholine olives produces 27 gallons of oil (Mission produces 45 gallons per ton).
Oils: The winery offers three oils: Sonoma Estate Extra Virgin ($50/500ml); California Certified Organic Extra Virgin ($18/500ml); and California Extra Virgin ($18/500ml). The non-estate oils--about 4,000 12-bottle cases--are purchased under contract from growers in the Central Valley. Production for the Sonoma Estate oil is 125 gallons per year.
Notes: The Cohns are planning to open a culinary center at the winery in 2005, in which the winery's olive oils will play a central role.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, St. Helena
Year Oil Production Began: 1998
Picking And Processing: The Phelps vineyard crew--about 14-16 men--harvests the olives. (If the olives haven't ripened before the crew goes home to Mexico in the winter, the picking is left to the remaining winery staff). The olives are pressed at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma.
Acreage And Varieties: Phelps has 4.5 acres of olive trees, including the following varieties: Frantoio (70%), Pendolino (11%), Leccino (14%) and Maurino (5%). The winery also has a few Picholine trees and about 30 Mission trees on the Spring Valley ranch and at Backus.
Oils: Phelps' extra virgin olive oil sells for $20 per 375ml bottle. The winery produced 79 cases of the 2002 oil, and estimated bottling about 100 cases of the 2003.
Preston Vineyards, Healdsburg
Year Oil Production Began: Early '90s
Picking And Processing: The winery's vineyard and winery staff picks the olives, with the aid of pneumatic picking wands. The olives are pressed at Frantoio in Mill Valley and at McEvoy.
Acreage And Varieties: Preston began planting olive trees in the late '80s, and today has 1,000 olive trees. About 75% of the trees are Italian oil varieties, including Leccino, Pendolino, Frantoio, Casaliva, Grignano and Mauriolo. The winery also grows Manzanillo, Mission and Sevillano for curing and/or oil.
Oils: The 2003 Olio Nuevo ($25/500ml) is Preston's 10th vintage. The winery's largest harvest to date was 150 gallons, and Preston expects the number to peak at 650 gallons as the trees mature.
Wente Vineyards, Livermore
Year Oil Production Began: 1986
Picking And Processing: The olives are hand picked over a one-month period. Modesto-based Nick Sciabica & Sons cold presses the oil in small batches within 24 hours of picking.
Acreage And Varieties: French grapegrower Louis Mel imported and planted Wente's Lucque and Picholine trees in 1880. Wente's oil blend also includes Manzanillo, Ascolano, Mission and Sevillano varietals.
Oils: Wente produces about 200 9-liter cases per year of its Oro Fino Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil ($19.95/375ml).
T.C.
RELATED ARTICLE: Grapevine Nursery Adds Olive Trees
While other grapevine nurseries were expanding their offerings to include varietals like Syrah and Pinot gris, Santa Rosa's NovaVine chose to offer something different--olive trees. According to VP Dennis Black, NovaVine began selling Spanish olive trees in 1999. "We realized there was opportunity in olive oil," Black said.
Arbequina was the first variety NovaVine imported from Spain, followed by Mission, Manzanillo and four Tuscan varieties. Most of the trees are sold to landscapers, olive growers and wineries, Black said, and the wineries have shown particular interest in the Arbequina and Tuscan varieties.
"California wineries are definitely in the olive oil business," he continued. "They're taking it very seriously and a lot of serious effort is taking place. Wineries are doing more food and wine pairings and a lot of wineries have their own chefs and are doing cooking classes. Olive oil fits into this nicely."
Olive trees start at $15 for a 1-gallon size tree. For more information, visit the Web site novavine.com.
T.C.
RELATED ARTICLE: Napa Valley Futures Raise Nearly $1 Million At Premiere Napa Valley Auction
Months before the glamour and hoopla of the annual Napa Valley Wine Auction, national and international wine wholesalers, retailers and restaurateurs descended on St. Helena for the auction-before-the-auction: Premiere Napa Valley.
The eighth annual event, held Feb. 21 at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, raised a total of $987,200 to help support programs sponsored by the Napa Valley Vintners, official host of the auction.
Before the auction began, more than 500 trade and media attendees sampled unique barrel wines, primarily 2002 and 2003 reds created from special vineyard blocks, using innovative winemaking techniques. While most producers poured Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, some chose to experiment with different varietals. For example, Ceja Vineyards poured an unusual blend of Merlot, Pinot noir and Syrah, while Sterling Vineyards and Flora Springs presented Malbec wines.
More than 270 paddle holders competed for 158 lots of Napa wine futures, and a total of 1,065 cases were sold to 60 winning bidders. The highest single bid of the day was $35,000 for a 20-case lot of Silver Oak Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon blend.
As was the case last year, the event's top bidder was Gary Fisch, owner of Gary's Wine and Marketplace in Madison, N.J. Fisch spent $203,900 on 20 different lots, including the five-case Shafer Vineyards and Stag's Leap Wine Cellars lots, selling for $28,000 and $21,000 respectively.Top Lots at Premiere Napa Valley 2004
Silver Oak Cellars $35,000
Shafer Vineyards $28,000
Joseph Phelps Vineyards $26,000
Pride Mountain Vineyards $26,000
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars $21,000
Viader Vineyards & Winery $18,000
Vineyard 29 $17,000
Beringer Vineyards $14,500
Duckhorn Vineyards $14,000
Lewis Cellars $14,000
Staglin Family Vineyard $14,000
Beaulieu Vineyard $13,000
Darioush Vineyard $13,000
Husic Vineyards $13,000
Spottswoode Vineyard & Winery $13,000
The auction wines are scheduled for private release, to the successful
bidders only, between 2004 and 2007.
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